maybe not PEI but the PC Maggio does the trick. With PC it sticks like hell as long as hot. As soon as it cools down the part falls of itself.
Using it also on the black side of the Qidi sheets.
note: you will be welcome in Voron community as well
maybe not PEI but the PC Maggio does the trick. With PC it sticks like hell as long as hot. As soon as it cools down the part falls of itself.
Using it also on the black side of the Qidi sheets.
note: you will be welcome in Voron community as well
Don't like the default Brim as cumbersome to remove - creating these tiny local one layer ones on the corners typically helps a lot and they are easy to remove even without tools. I am printing on PEI sheets or PEI coated springsteel with PC Maggio. THe Maggio works great. What you need to do is a long cooldown - at least my observation while printing the this mod. Chamber temp >50C when printing. I now start in evening so I can watch until 20-30% to get the bridges done, the rest then while sleeping as typically uncritical (except nozzle issues but this is bad luck then).
Ich habe da jetzt voll auf Dich gesetzt zum Nachbau Hoffe das jemand eine super Lösung parat hat.
Some pictures of the current build now with 1.3 FAN Duct it self. Now it should be ready for first shipping.
Thanks to humebeam for all those improvements on the fly
FAN Duct still bit too much stringing but OK I spent now two spools on PC test prints....
Lets see what we still improve after first customer feedbacks
Hier die Releasenotes zum 0.1: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/releases/tag/V0.1
Vorwange PEI habe ich schon ein paar Folien hier. Muss halt erstmal wieder einen Zeitschlitz finden... Die Energetic Folie scheint sehr dünn, PC zieht aber halt auch ordentlich am Boden wenn es abkühlt.
Look good with 0.4mm Width - maybe check the STL - Prusa gave an STL error (that can be auto repaired) -
Zitat von Prusatwo facets reversed
I am still struggling with the FAN Ducts challenge to print them clean in PC. Was experimenting with Layer Width for external perimeters. Default would by 0.44 but need to go down to 0.29 to get a clean sliced object
Left 0.32mm, right 0.44mm creating tiny holes
~0.32mm creates a big hole left even if fine right, 0.29mm looks OK everywhere - never printed with that thin perimeter yet
Might be very slicer depending - the above was a Prusa 2.3
humebeam which setting did you use for the fan ducts?
humebeam is it mandatory to shorten the BMG lever for the x-PLus as well? with the chad version only the MAX needed the shorter one - same for yours?
Second build - third one ready for prep in the background
Energetic 350x350 PEI - hatte schon mal ein ähnliches Bild gepostet
Nach je 5 PC Drucken bei 260/110C - habt Ihr das auch? - der Film löst sich vom Federstahl. Vor allem an den Ecken wo durch Abkühlung gut Zug drauf ist. Das ist jetzt die zweite Platte die so aussieht. Ich nutze schon das Translateplugin um die Object auf der Platte so hinzuschieben, dass es nicht auf einer "Blase" landet.
Werde mir auch mal welche selber bekleben, nachdem ich mir den Spaß machen darf die PEI Folie zu entfernen.
Herkules builds started (based on official 1.6) Step 1 - stepper motors prep. Not sure which is the better option longer cables - motor looking to the other side or as below with the short version. Decides for the short version for the time being.
humebeam did you think about a cable ties bracket below the PCB or similar for even better cable management?
Habe gerade nochmals das 9x9 Bedmesh mit einer anderen Printplate gemacht dann das erhalten. komplett gedrehtes Bild. Als das es dann twisted rails liegt glaube ich so nicht so recht - das müsste dann immer ein ähnliches Bild ergeben oder? Nicht das sich meine Probe wieder losgerüttelt hat, aber dann wäre 0.05mm doch recht wenig veränderung. Fakt wenn ich großflächiger drucke ist der Firstlayer nicht konstant dicht
Hmm OK - but maintaining two versions is a bit cumbersome - but yepp - lets do and wait for more feedback. I will stick to the slighty wider version printed in PC. Depending on feedback you can decide later which will be main thread.
Hmm - you used ABS or PC for this longer print?
Das Austauschen des SMDs ist es aber meiner Meinung nach den Aufwand nicht wert -1.8k. Kabellänge beim PT1000 unkritisch. Beim PT100 sieht das anders aus. Da idealerweise mit Kabelkompensation...