Gerade zwei fertig mit Test, Paketmarke auf dem Karton + einen Herkules. Ich habe schon mal einen Ikarus freigeschaltet für den nächsten ...
Olaf I hope you don't mind, I borrowed a picture from you for the updated Icarus assembly guide. I have credited you:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81744-i…ter-15-dragon-m
As the engineer behind the designs I can only second what Olaf said, it's still FDM technology so there will still be limitations. 
However, you will be able to get better looking prints as well with much better parts cooling. Dial in flow per filament using my flow cube.
You will get a superior extruder and hotend and if you got for the Icarus it will also handle flexibles / TPU with ease. Another benefit of it is one-handed nozzle changes.
Alles anzeigenDo you have some more Information / links regarding Klipper on the stock Qidi mainboard?
I have already been looking out for Marlin but didn't stumple across Klipper-Support..
the most matching thing I could find was support für X5SA Chitu boards since Marlin 2.0 (maybe very similiar, didn't dive in that much).
Klipper always sounded interesting 😅
Not yet sure wether I want to loose the touchscreen, because
a) I like how the the Filament un-/loading is done and
b) the fast leveling part with only one point + manual steering directly at the printer in case I do a 3 point leveling.
But thats both replaceable, I already use Octoprint for printing and everything else..
You can join our Discord group for more information and help, we have a Klipper channel there and at least a couple of users with Klipper on stock boards:
Linear Advance is unfortunately not supported by the Qidi / Chitu firmware. You could flash Klipper on the stock board and use Pressure Advance but it is for advanced users only. You would also loose the stock touchscreen.
There are a few users that have converted to Duet and SKR boards too.
I'm not sure why people do "e-step calibrations", it will only give you headaches.
The e-step value set in my firmware (and also in stock Qidi) is already correct and it is calculated based on the mechanical properties of the extruder (motor type, gear ratio, number of teeth and gear diameter). If you change the e-step value it will just introduce other issues.
Instead, use the e-step value that's in firmware (just print it again) and instead dial in flow per filament .
Nce thread, cool to see users sharing their profiles I Didn't see it until now.
Latest Cura versions print quite a bit slower than estimated if I remember correctly.
If you want to speed up printing time even more you probably also have to increase the acceleration and jerk as well, at least for smaller models.
You can change the values in the firmware gcode and reprint it. The values are quite reserved and what is recommended by the extruder dev. You should be able to double it with no issues at least.
You can also set this in your start code of you like.
- Flow for ASA on Icarus with Sherpa Mini should be pretty close to 1.0 (100%). 80% seems way too low. For the Orbiter version it should be around 0.96.
- Retraction can be kept pretty low. I've been using 0.7 mm with fairly low acc and deacc at 30 lately for my ABS prints. Can be probably set even lower.
- If you get blobs on layer changes, disable "travel prime" in the slicer. Another reason can be wrong motor direction so it extrudes when retracting instead of just retracting.
I've made an assembly and installation guide for Icarus. You can check it out here:
Update October 25, 2021
Icarus 1.2.1 has been released. It is just a facelift release with small adjustments. Changes:
- Added a window below the PCB holder where cables can be routed through instead of around.
- Other very minor aethetic fixes.
- Hotend mounts updated to 1.1, minor fixes.
- New: Added Zodiac x Phaetus hotend mount.
If you printed 1.2.0 already there is no need to reprint unless you really want to.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81744-i…ter-15-dragon-m
All new ones this way.
@all: In case you got a Icarus with Winsin 4010 Heatbreak fan and it is not running as it should. U/min goes up and down, bearings sounds bad... let me know (drop me a chat message). Today I tested several ones as I will switch completely to Sunon ones. While testing I found 50% not running perfect - look like I got a bad batch.
BTW orders of last week will go out tomorrow - all build.
Good info on the fans. I recommend Sunon myself, I use it for my builds. The BOM is linking to Trianglelab and Gdstime fans slmce they are much cheaper but Sunon should be superior. I might link to that as the primary option.
could you doublecheck - at least my new prints (new version) are pretty loose there. Before I had to drill them always. So somewhere in between I would like
Sure I will adjust them a little when I get a chance, possibly later tonight I'll update here.
I could open up the area below the PCB so the cables could be routed through it instead of around.
- Is there any significant benefit of the sherpa version? Just saw it on Prusa.
- Another one: looks like you increased the diameter for the PTFE tube on the hotend mounts? Feels a little loose now.
If have now build several Icarus with the new design and still not sure about the best cable routing.
- First I thought all throught the hole under the PCB. Looks clean but cable could get into the fan plus maintability is maybe not the greatest.
- All around the PCB holder I also did not like that much because it does not look nice especially for the heater cable.
- Currently routing the heater cabel through the hole below the PCB and the rest around the holder. then tightened with zips.
I am now opting between 2. & 3. for future builds.
ANd the ones who got it like 1. In case you don't like it let me know in the chat and I will send you a new build in exchange to yours - or just some parts with longer cables if you want to do it yourself.
1. Not really. It's a bit lighter but apart from that I prefer the Orbiter.
2. I believe they should be the same diameter. It's better if it's slightly loose than too tight to avoid potential binding of the filament.
Regarding the other changes for 1.2 they were made so it could be printed completely without supports so the slot below the PCB holder was closed, it's a shame because I quite liked that idea.
I route all my cables around the corner like in your pic and I believe most people do the same, the opening below the PCB was intended for airflow.
Ach ja hat jemand mal die Trainglelabs Variante mit dem "Moon" Motor schon getestet? Ich habe mal einen geordert um zu sehen ob der den LDO Motor problemlos ersetzt.
Yeah couple of guys use the Moons motor, the specs are pretty much identical to LDO so both are good to go.
The cable order is the same but cable colour different.
I'll fix it soon It was up on Thingiverse before but might have gone missing in the migration.
Correct, that is the reason. There is a version of the carriage for a left hand BMG though, the stepper motor direction in fw just needs to be reversed.
What an abonimation, love it : D
No it is unfortunately incredibly expensive.
There's not really any need for us to use it in these builds, PA-CF, PC-CF or normal PC blends are more than strong enough. It was more a proof of concept.
humebeam I have to thank you so much for this Icarus-Design. This case (880gr PLA NX2 white, Extrudr.. the gooey hell of PLA, but so goddam sexy matte) for the famous game Tippi Tree by Devon Montes would have taken almost 4 days to print on standard profile Qidi X Max. With the Icarus Upgrade I was able to print the whole thing with 100mm/sec in 1day, 18hours in a more than decent quality
Awesome!
Meanwhile, yesterday I printed glass fibre reinforced 3DXTECH PEI (Ultem 1010) for the first time. It's about twice as strong as normal Ultem.
Icarus with Orbiter 1.5 and Dragon hotend.
Print temp: 385 C. Bed temp: 140 C (first layer, ramped down). Chamber temp around 52 C, my enclosure is insulated. Print speed: 20 mm/s. Printed on glass with Nano Polymer bed adhesion.
This filament has a heat deflection temp of 217 C, is flame retardant and is incredibly strong. The part was annealed post printing.
The print is a bit rough around the edges but it will get there, need to dial in temps, retraction etc. Also, showing off the new Zodiac x Phaetus hotend mount, will releaae after testing.
