Yes will pick up a PC Magigoo, thanks
Need to try PEI myself. I have a couple of Energetic textured, smooth and PEI applied, not tried with PC, scared they get stuck too good. Also one steel plate with PEI Ultem meant for my future Voron
Thanks! Yeah I don't have too much luck with PC, warps every time, went through half a spool Prusament PC blend now. Smaller prints like the fan duct and other parts are always fine. I've printed on black side with glue, white side, glass. What do you print on?
My slice looks similar but has a wide brim all around. So far it looks good, about 40% complete, I upped the temp to 275/110 this time.
Alright checking tonight, cheers.
Yup. Version 1.3 posted, should be at least two walls everywhere with a 0.4 mm nozzle with a line width up to 0.48 mm, at least that's what my S3D preview showed:
I'll check my other slicers tonight but should be good.
Alright thanks buddy I'll do some adjustments ASAP to improve printability, should be by tonight at the latest.
I am still struggling with the FAN Ducts challenge to print them clean in PC. Was experimenting with Layer Width for external perimeters. Default would by 0.44 but need to go down to 0.29 to get a clean sliced object
Left 0.32mm, right 0.44mm creating tiny holes
~0.3mm creates a big hole left, 0.29mm looks OK everywhere - never printed with that thin perimeter yet
Might be very slicer depending - the above was a Prusa 2.3
humebeam which setting did you use for the fan ducts?
I'm using a line width of 0.40 mm.
Could you point out on a larger picture where the issues are? I think I may need to create a bit thicker walls.
humebeam is it mandatory to shorten the BMG lever for the x-PLus as well? with the chad version only the MAX needed the shorter one - same for yours?
Second build - third one ready for prep in the background
The extruder position is identical to Chad's because I wanted cross-design compatibility for fan ducts and so on so if the full size handle fits Chad's X-Plus, it should also fit this.
Got your donation for the builds, much appreciated.
I think that version in the picture is the best, that's how mine is routed currently. No need for a cable tie IMO. Could also do a little longer cable length and pull it under the PCB holder the same way the other cables are secured.
But you can also run a longer cable around and below the extruder the same way the heater and thermocouples are routed, a little less space though. This is from my assembly guide:
It's probably just that one print I did, I'm not a PC pro
I also think it's best with a single version. We'll stick to the current version, if there is feedback of it being loose I'll offer a tighter version but if not we'll stick to this.
I may just make two versions, one normal like the current and one with tighter clearances.
It comes down to individual slicer settings (flow etc), which filament was used etc, it's impossible to make a version with 100% perfect fitment for all.
Olaf Krause I noticed with the wider bearing holders in 1.6 although they fit fine in a cold printer but after a long print they loosen up and similar to the Chad version (but not as much, that one is way too loose) it it does not hold as firmly. Thinking of reducing the width slightly to 19.15 mm diameter. Thoughts?
Edit: It probably does not effect print quality either way but it gets a little noisier when it's not super tight.
Great OK - then I will try another test print today night/ tomorrow morning - if this looks fine (what I assume) I will go for PC again and finally start building some for shipping.
Yes I'm confident it is good, only very minor changes since our latest test prints (larger rounded opening for lower ribbon latch, thicker motor mount, belt holder)
I'll start a PC print myself tomorrow, will skip ABS this time.
Update April 29, 2021
A couple of design changes bring the Hercules version number to 1.6:
- Ribbon bracket moved to the edge of the carriage, also closer to the blower fan.
- Ribbon bracket reduced width by a few mm.
- PCB holder moved 5 mm closer to the ribbon bracket, easier to remove ribbon cable.
- Cutout for bottom ribbon cable latch access, for the same reason as above.
- Stepper motor / extruder holder a little thicker, reduces the risk of bottoming out extruder screws.
- Dial holder attachment updated to version 1.1, slightly wider because of the motor holder change above.
- Belt holder minor redesign so it's not as thin on the edge.
- BOM updated with recommended parts: Changes; 23 mm stepper motor added, 60W heater cartridge.
- Renders not updated yet.
Thanks again to Olaf Krause for feedback.
Print done - now the cable is much easier to remove - this looks real good now.
And yes there is a piece next to the bearing which should not be there
Very good to hear.
Mine still hasn't finished
I just noticed a bug with 1.6, it must have happened when I moved the ribbon cable holder.
You can just remove the deformation under one of the bearing holders with pliers once it has finished printing, I'll fix the bug now for the final version. Also spotted another weakness, fixing now.
Sorry about that.
Thanks. The motor end of the cable does not have a connector though but is directly connected. Looking at the TL site the orientation appears to be the same between the different TL motors so I'll try using yours