Posts by humebeam

    I tried 2mm thick Ikea mirror. It is better in tolerance but still not close to good, because it is tiny uneven by it's own. But I am not a fan of this mirror anyway, have problem to get my first layer stick on pure glass beds.


    Did you removed your aluminium bed or did you put the glass bed on top?

    Glass bed on top, it's thick and flat so it evens it out. :)

    I bought my belt and pulleys from RatRig but I would probably go for genuine Gates if ordered again.


    I'm using an open belt and Icarus with belt tensioner. The X gantry is around 850g lighter than stock with Icarus and CF rods so it makes a big difference. Oh and I'm using Nylon bearings.


    It's mostly an experiment though, it's fine with stock steel rods and bearings.

    Sorry my "school" German is too rusty so I'll write in English :)


    First, remove panels on both sides, there are 6 M3 cap/socket head screws on each side and one on each side from the inside near the handle. Remove rear and front panels too. Next, unscrew the top panel and lift it off.


    Now you get access to the top where you can unscrew the Y motor and also the holders for the pulleys. If you're going for 2GT 20T pulleys and belt (which I recommend) they are larger in diameter than the stock plastic 17T pulleys so you need to bend and force them in. Remember to set new e-step x and y afterwards. For a 20T the new value is 0.0125.


    The X gantry is just pressed on over the steel rods so just pull (hard) to get them off. The pulleys on X sit on bearings in a socket so they can be pulled off. It's a good idea to use some distances between the pulleys and the bearings so they stay in place and don't slide inwards.

    Ribbon cable or connection to the PCB can do that.


    I recently had to replace my ribbon cable because it was used for so long without proper support so at times it gave wrong temps. That's one reason for the ribbon cable holder of Icarus, it saves the cable so it won't happen. :)

    Hercules and Icarus firmwares have been updated with new acceleration and jerk values.


    Previously they were reduced, based on recommendations from the extruder developer. Naturally, this slows down the print time unless you bump up the print speed too.


    I have reverted the values back to stock. Download the firmware again and print the gcode or execute this command (save it as a .gcode and print):


    ; Acceleration and Jerk

    M8007 I15; Jerk

    M8008 I1000; Acceleration X / Y


    ; Save

    M8500; Save changes


    You can experiment with acceleration a little if you like, up to 2000 should be fine. I would not change jerk too much.

    That performance diagram of Orbiter 2.0 vs 1.5 is very misleading, performance is in fact as far as I can tell identical. Classic marketing.


    As you can see, they compare Orbiter 2.0 with an Orbiter 1.5 with an old stepper motor that's not been in production since Orbiter 1.0, in fact, all Orbiter 1.5 come with the same motor as the new 2.0.


    However, it is slightly lighter and more compact, neither making particular advantage in our printers.


    But there is one real advantage; a metal filament exit guide from the bottom of the gears to the bottom of the extruder, this will help performance for flexibles. But my 1.5 prints TPU fine too.

    Sorry, but I haven't noticed anything yet. I have already written to them 3 times and have not received an answer for several weeks. Everyone on the internet raves about their customer service. I haven't noticed anything about it yet.

    Try sophia @ qd3dprinter dot com. Always helpful and quick to reply, sometimes even on weekends.

    Update November 24, 2021


    New belt tensioner: The new Icarus belt tensioner for open belts has been tested now for a few weeks with no issues. It is compatible with the current version of Icarus so there is no need for a reprint, the same carriage is used for both stock (closed) belts and open belts. If you're looking to replace your belts and pulleys to “industry standard” GT2 this should be happy news.


    The tensioner needs an M3 heated insert installed and the belt peg a 30 mm M3 socket head through it, I will not cover this in the assembly guide, it should be pretty self explanatory. These parts are already included in the BOM.


    Meanwhile, the actual belt peg was refreshed and the new version has a hole for the socket head, this hole can just be ignored if you use a stock (closed) belt.


    https://www.prusaprinters.org/…e-for-orbiter-15-dragon-m

    As the engineer behind the designs I can only second what Olaf said, it's still FDM technology so there will still be limitations. :)


    However, you will be able to get better looking prints as well with much better parts cooling. Dial in flow per filament using my flow cube.


    You will get a superior extruder and hotend and if you got for the Icarus it will also handle flexibles / TPU with ease. Another benefit of it is one-handed nozzle changes.

    You can join our Discord group for more information and help, we have a Klipper channel there and at least a couple of users with Klipper on stock boards:


    https://discord.gg/CRzCWtHJCJ